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Hi there I own a 375cfm leroi compressor and am in need of a parts and service manual for this compressor and am wondering if you would possibly sell this or if you know where I would be able to purchase one my model # A219-106 Serial # 3138X67. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Marc Current thread: Need to get your Leroi Dresser Repaired? Quickly Hire our Service Dept to do the work for you! Credit Application Form If you need your Leroi Dresser unit tested or repaired then give us a call at 1-336-969-0110.

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Manual for a 1996 dixon mower 2301. OLD Topic: Leroi Dresser Leroi Compressor service manual Your name: Valid Email Address Required: Your Location: Subject: Comment about Leroi Dresser: Solve the captcha.

I've been nagging my neighbor for the past 7 years to get this compressor up ang going as it had been sitting on his garage floor tucked in the corner. This compressor came out of an old Firestone shop many years ago and was driven by a 7-1/2HP 3 phase motor installed on an 80 gallon vertical tank. Since my neighbor did not have 3 phase power, he installed a cheapy single stage Craftsman compressor and 3HP 3450 RPM motor.

I told him I'd help him out and order all parts necessary to get this compressor running. A new 5HP Baldor motor, Siemens 5HP mag starter, Pumptrol pressure switch, check valve, safety valves, motor sheave/bushing, and air filter were ordered. The comrpessor really puts out some air at very low RPM. It just purrs along and is actually pretty quiet. The Dressor nameplate on the tank states the type 5000 compressor uses a 5HP motor and operates at 770 RPM max. I ordered a 2B80SK motor sheave to obtain 770 RPM compressor speed. The only issue I've run into is that it overloads the motor and pulls 25 amps when the tank pressure reading exceeds 130 psi.

Perhaps the motors used for these compressors back in the 1960's were de-rated on horsepower. The 5HP Baldor L1430T motor has nameplate amperage rating of 20.6 amps.

23.7 amps would be amperage rating at 1.15 S.F. So, I'm not thrilled. I've ordered a 2B70SK sheave to slow the compressor speed down a bit to about 675 RPM and we'll see what happens.

The CFM produced will drop a bit but I don't want the motor to have a premature life expectancy either due to constant overloading. It will still be more than enough CFM to satisfy the requirements of a home workshop. My neighbor gave it a shot of paint which really set it off.

Pretty close to the original paint scheme as well. He's got a little bit of touch up paint work and we'll wire up the low oil shut-down switch and install the belt guard.

He should be set for many many years of reliable service. [IMG] [/IMG]. Steve, What negative experiences have you had with Baldor? Just curious as I will take this into consideration when making future motor purchases.

Other than Leeson and Marathon, I really don't know who makes motors 'made in the USA' these days. There is a big difference between made in the USA and assembled in the USA! I try to always choose as large of a frame size as possible for a given HP rating.

The increased size means more effective heat dissipation. There is something not right seeing a 3HP 56 frame motor or a 145 frame 5HP motor. I own several R.I. Motors from the 1930's and 40's that came on old Delta woodworking machinery rated at 1HP. They weigh in at 90 lbs.

Built to last! I have an identical unit that I also bought from a Firestone Store that my son worked at in the 70's. It was blowing smoke out of the airtools and all that was wrong with it was carbon under the valves that was burning. I got it for 50.00 and used it in my shop on 3 ph. For over 10 years and I moved it to my home shop and also put on a new Baldor 5hp that I shut down @ 130#.

I still have the 5hp 3ph if someone needs one?The new motor seems to work just a tad harder just before shutdown, however I never checked the amp draw? If you ever experience the start of a light knock-pull the head and retighten the valves as they try to unscrew. Scw, Time was, I knew a guy who had a scrap business. He always was coming up with motors. I'd buy all the single phase ones and fix 'em up, then use 'em or sell 'em. All the old repulsion start motors ever seemed to want was a good cleaning and oiling, and they were as good as new. Big name capacitor motors (Westinghouse, GE, Century) were fine, too, although sometimes I had to clean centrifugal switch contacts or replace caps.